Code 11.59; A Young Collectors Perspective

The Code 11.59 debuted by Audemars Piguet was hit with extreme controversy. Was this down to a mob mentality, or is there something truly wrong with the watch? Is it a combination of both?

Audemars Piguet has been "called out" for being a one watch company for many years. This is a little strange as the watch that they are known for is an icon of the watch world; the Royal Oak. Now my opinion of the Royal Oak, has been clear, it is simply my favorite watch every created. Was the code 11.59 a failed response to the call out, or do people just like to complain?

The watch is interesting, it doesn't follow the same type of style that the rest of the traditional watch companies of Geneva are producing, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. This was one of the few truly modern watches that has been produced. There is nothing that really set it apart as truly Audemars Piguet, there is no identity there. This is a first, and with a first in a whole new type of watch, there is definitely going to be backlash.

This is not to say that the code 11.59 loses all of its identity that they had with the Royal Oak. In fact they retain a lot of their identity keeping their 8 distinctive edges that really define the Royal Oak. The crystal on the code 11.59 is also fascinating, and the best that I could explain it is complicated.  It creates an incredible perspective that can not fully be taken advantage of on camera. People's criticism really comes from its counterparts, as it mildly looks like a Daniel Wellington or a MVMT watch but that would be a bit of a stretch.


The watch is something new thing the Audemars Piguet line, and kudos to them for trying something new, even though they really didn't have to. Alot of innovation in the watch community comes from going back to basics, and going vintage, but Audemars Piguet decided to innovate. The Perpetual Calendar, as well as the chronograph will grow on you after time, and when they do nothing but that they are beautiful can be said.

Why Vacheron Consantin Doesn't Belong in the Holy Trinity

The Holy Trinity of watches, or the big three, have been Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Consantin. Patek and Audemars Piguet have brought huge innovation, and real change to the watch community, but Vacheron Constantin has played a nominal role.

History 

Vacheron was founded in the late 1700's by an independent watchmaker named Jean-Marc Vacheron. The most innovative thing that Vacheron has done is create the first engine turned dials, but outside of that there isn't any sort of magic that makes these watches special. Instead Vacheron produces great watches, very respectable, but not in the top 3. 

Modern Day 

The most notable thing that Vacheron has done in the last 50 years is the collaboration with Hodinkee. Thats it. As someone who is, (relatively), new in the watch world, my family doesn't have a history in watches, Vacheron has not produced anything, besides the Hodinkee Cornes de Vache, that has really blown my mind. The overseas was their real attempt at a modern contemporary watch, that would bring them back into the market, but it really fell short. In modern times they don't really create any hard competition, in other words you are never going to buy a modern Vacheron over a Modern Patek.

Competition 

There are plenty of other brands that come to mind as better contenders for the Holy Trinity than a Vacheron. The first of which that comes to mind is A. Lange and Sohne. Now Lange, nothing more needs to be said, it's simply incredible. This is a brand, which in my and many other peoples minds, rivals Patek. That Datograph is simply one of the best watches ever created.
  
But let's say that the Holy Trinity must be Swiss, ok Jaeger Le Coultre. Jaeger Le Coultre produces similarly priced and similarly looking watches, but has done a much better job at advertising and innovating in a modern sense. The reverso is simply more important to the watch community then a Cornes de Vache or an overseas.

Vacheron, sadly, does not offer enough to be considered in the top three. It just doesn't have that special watch character.

Now heres some watch porn, all watches that are better then any Vacheron. 

The 5270J

All of Lange 

1815 Rattrapante 

5270J Salmon Dream Watch

The Reverso

       

F.P Journe, the greatest independent watchmaker of all time?

Francois Paul Journe is a man of high prestige in the watch community. These watches are some of the most valued pieces in the entire world, and are simply beautiful. Now F.P. Journe the brand is not yet an established brand. As it has been said by Hodinkee many a time, "You have to be really in it to know F.P. Journe".

The Watches 

Now there is so much to say about the beauty of the watches that Journe produces, and I dont have the capacity to explain it. These watches look interesting, different, innovative. These watches have that characteristic that can reignite ones passion about watches, and watchmaking.  

 

The Market

Independent watches, in some peoples opinion are a bit of a bubble. Some people think that independent brands will simply die out because an investment in an F.P Journe, is not going to hold the same value as an investment in Patek Phillippe. However, it seems as though people have, now, a particular craving for haute horology, something that F.P. Journe not only offers, but goes above and beyond with. 

The Struggle of being a teen watch collector

Now this is going to be a little bit different of a post then all of my other posts, and I might take it down later but I'm going to be talking about a serious first world problem. My parents wont let me buy another watch.

Yes, I know, I'm spoiled. That is not however why I'm so angry that I will turn to the internet to dispel my anger. Now this goes for a lot of teenager things, but my parents think that watch collecting is stupid to say the least. Why do you need so many watches? Why are you settling for a watch that you dont really want? Why don't you save up for that one watch?

The problem I have is a lack of respect and acknowledgment for any sort of hobby. My parent's can not conceive me spending money on an Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space, but would not blink an eye if I spent that money on literally anything else in my life. That is what ticks me off the most. The lack of interest in real passions.

People might not realize or believe in what you are doing, or that the goals that you have set for yourself are good. However that just makes the actual product so much better. When you have heard all your life that the true passions that you felt like you had to hide from your family; when you get that collection of watches that you want, you will feel so much gratitude because there was a struggle behind getting there. When I get my hands on my First Omega in Space, a watch that I have wanted since its inception, it will have this taste of victory that will be so so sweet.

Value in Vintage Timex

Timex is a brand that is now synonymous with your child'd first watch. Timex is however with a huge amount of provenance and history, and the vintage market has seemed to neglect alot of Timex pieces.

Movement 

The brand is now very well known for their cheap quartz watches, but at one time Timex was producing sturdy automatic and self-winding movements. Now these movements were nothing elegant, but they were functional, and meant to last. When the quartz crisis hit, the brand immediately took in quartz, but it seems that now they are realizing that the market is calling for mechanical movements. 

Aesthetics

Now these watches have this special sort of since to them since production of these mechanical versions was literally halted as soon as the quartz crisis hit. It's like the watch is a real time machine, with 60s and 70s quarks that make it seem like it was your grandfathers watch.  Personally if your looking for that really vintage look, and the name is not your biggest concern, Timex might be one of your better options in a niche sort of way.
   

Value 

These watches are not rare by any means, but a good example is fairly hard to come by. Now we aren't talking anything near vintage day date money, which makes the value so astonishing. You can get a fair quality working vintage Timex for around $100. You've got the history. You've got the movement. And you've for sure got the price.

 

Why I feel Cartier Is Overrated

Cartier gets a lot of praise by a ton of watch geeks everywhere. One of my favorite watch geeks, Christian from Theo and Harris adores the Tank. I however have never been the biggest fan. It's not because of the small size, or any of the pompousness that comes along with a Cartier, its the superficialness that I find so lackluster.

Hypocrisy 

Now undeniably the Tank has had a profound effect on the watch world, and for that alone it has earned its respect, however to the degree that it has done so is debatable. The Watch community, myself included, is so quick to hate on brands like Daniel Wellington, and MVMT. Why? 

The brands, and the watches that they produce, are always so superficial. These brands focus purely on design, and put no effort in to movement, or some of the other aspects that can make a watch so desirable. However in many aspects Cartier is the same way. Agreed that Cartier Tanks are much MUCH better then a Daniel Wellington, but that superficialness is still there. Cartier has focused purely on the design, and has simply put "acceptable" movements in their watches. The hypocrisy here I find astonishing. 

Enthusiasm 

Cartier seems to not give a fuck about watches. They had a surplus of watches that they had nothing to do with... so you know what they did with them. THEY BURNED THEM. You can't tell me that a company cares about its watches when it is literally burning them. A company, such as Rolex, or Patek, would never burn any surplus of time pieces simply to save some market price. If these companies wanted to keep the market price that they already had, they would hold them, keep them in storage; burning a product is simply repulsive.

 

Justification 

Now in no way am I saying that Cartier Tanks are the equivalent of MVMT's; however these watches are completely overrated. The design of a Cartier is classic and elegant, but in no way does that justify it being put on a pedestal. Good watch yes, Dream watch no. 

 

Why A. Lange and Söhne is my Favorite Brand

A. Lange and Söhne was found by an Adolf Lange, who had a dedication to making superlative time pieces. Now something that stands out about Lange is that they are not based out of Switzerland. When we think of fine watch brands a lot of the time we think of Patek Philippe, Rolex, people with big names; most of which are based out of Switzerland. Lange was not going to be based out of Switzerland and instead decided to make his watches in Glashütte.

History

World War II made a huge mark on the brand. With the company in ruins, Walter Lange decided to bring back the company in full force. The company had outlived the war; it had survived, hurt yes, but it had a desire to become one of the finest watches in the World. 

 

Ethos 

The companies ethos has always been to provide the highest quality of finishing on all levels of its watches. One of the things that stood out to me the most was when Anthony de Haas, in an interview, said that all of Lange watches have the same level and care put into the movements finishing it is simply the complication that varies.

My Reasoning 

These watches are simply mesmerizing. Everything about the brand is fascinating and this trickles down to the individual watches themselves. Every time I see the back of a Datograph; I fall back in love with watches. A Lange and Söhne fuels the fire that is my love for watches in a way no other brand can. Maybe its the un paralleled perseverance that Walter Lange had. Maybe is the watches themselves, but this brand stands out to me, and has become my personal favorite.